Pandemic Diary, 22 March 2020

Day 7 (Sunday):

I’m so hungry so this will be a quick one.

Today we spent inside our hotel room either due to the 4pm curfew or the advice that going outside was too dangerous due to desperate people doing desperate things. I can relate as I would do pretty much anything right now for a burger. Due to our isolation food has been hard to come by. The hotel manager took pity on us at 4:06pm and gave us rice and a fried egg.

Luckily we had some distractions such as our KLM flight completely disappearing from our trip on the internet. The stress, sickness and high blood pressure were great distractions. With the help of my superstar family we were able to get in touch with KLM and get our flight tickets emailed to us. KLM you can now ignore the desperate pleas for help that we may have sent you 1,000 times over the last 24 hours on WhatsApp or Messenger as they would not pick up the phones.

I watched an old episode of Bake Off just so I could see food and imagine the taste.

We are now going to bed early so we have less waking hours thinking about our lack of food.

The good news is that tomorrow will hopefully be our last day here and after a 25 hour journey we will make it home.
We are keeping positive and making light of the situation as we are healthy and safe and we know there a lot of people in worse predicaments. We keep in touch with many people that are still stuck on the Galapagos Islands and we promised every single one that we will have a drink as each makes it home- I hope to be happily drunk very soon.

Keep everything crossed for us.

Pandemic Diary: 21 March 2020

Day 6 (Saturday):

At 9:30pm last night we received a text in our WhatsApp group that planes would be leaving the island the next morning. The instructions were to wait to get email confirmation that we had a seat on the flight. We waited and waited and nothing. We received no email and went to bed depressed.

Adam spent most of the night awake and at 2am found out that despite getting no email confirmations we were in fact on the list to get out. We packed up our belongings and walked to the airport.

We made it out!! It was touch and go and pretty stressful but I am now writing this sat in an airport hotel in Guayaquil on the mainland! Woop! One step closer to home.

Three planes left the Galapagos today and took 300 passengers to the mainland but there are still many left behind. The organization was a shambles and everything was done by hand and slowly but having said all that we are so grateful to everyone who helped us get out. We watched the first plane take off to the cheers of the airport staff.

We arrived at a completely deserted airport and were ushered out onto shuttles and to each of our hotels. We arrived past the 4pm curfew and were told we had to remain in the hotel, we could not go out and get food. Luckily I had smuggled in 2 tins of soup in my bag and the manager of the hotel let us use the hotels microwave.

Next step- get home. We think we have a flight out on Monday with KLM but we have not yet received any tickets. We have been advised to call but cannot get in touch with anyone.

Pandemic Diary: 20 March 2020

Day 5 (Friday):

The hotel (Emanuel at The Point) deserves a mention as the manager Nico could not be more helpful. He completely understands that we need to pay day by day and may suddenly disappear if a flight becomes available. He has allowed us use of the kitchens between certain hours so we can keep the price down and use some of our stash. The restaurant next door is still serving food and smuggles people in behind screens so they can eat inside. Their milkshakes are a sweet treat and a simple pleasure that I am going to hang on to. I hope the restaurant remains open.

Today we found out that the LATAM flight that was meant to be leaving this morning was cancelled- something to do with not getting the correct paperwork. How many officials does it take to successfully charter a plane off the Galapagos? I’m still waiting for a punch line that’s funny.

Ecuador are not allowing any domestic flights with the exception of the Galapagos Islands- they allowed 5 days to get everyone off the islands. We are now 4 days into that and no one has got off yet.

The German embassy has started a program to get its nationals home. No word from the British embassy.
Drama is provided to us as tensions rise in the WhatsApp group, people spread rumors or argue. At least we have some form of entertainment.

Through rumor we heard that something was happening at the city hall. We went down and completed a form- completely in Spanish so we don’t really know what it’s for. We were then told that the people who bought a plane ticket with LATAM were being prioritized and were being health screened ready to make their departure whenever that was confirmed. We insisted on being screened too so that we are ready should a miracle happen- we passed! It is so frustrating that certain airline passengers are being prioritized. At this point it shouldn’t really matter what airline people booked with, we all just want to get out and I’m sure we could all get on one plane.

We have a little project to keep a video diary of our experiences here for British TV. It may or may not get used but it gives us something to focus on and keeps us occupied. We have 7 films left on our tablet so rationing will begin if we don’t find decent WiFi soon.

Pandemic Diary: 19 March 2020

Day 4 (Thursday):

Today was the day we were meant to leave. Instead we woke up to the news that the major of Guayaquil had lost the plot and last night instructed the police to storm the airport and block the runway to stop the KLM plane from landing. Her speech online said something to the effect that the Europeans brought the virus here and they can stay and suffer the consequences. Great. I couldn’t make this up if I tried.

After an hour I finally got through to the British Embassy in Quito. I asked if any rescue flights were being sent as other countries seem to be doing to collect their nationals and was told that the embassy was advising we get a commercial flight. I don’t think they really understand the situation- there are no commercial flights or the major stops them from landing, plus we are still stuck on the island.

News spread in a WhatsApp group that a LATAM flight was leaving on Friday from San Cristobal to the mainland. We asked if we could get on this flight but have been told it’s for LATAM customers only. We have offered to pay to book on with LATAM but it is not possible by internet and no one is picking up the phones. The rep in the group has told us to hang tight and he will see what he can do. We are just in limbo right now. Many other travelers are in the same situation and the plan is just to turn up to the airport tomorrow.

The police came by again with something blasting from their tanoid. This time we were with 4 Spanish speaking travelers so they were able to tell us that were asking us to not group together and to leave the area. The streets remain empty and everything is closed. Travelers spot each other and come running up to share information.

I am writing this sat outside a cafe on the empty street as we try to stay connected to the internet. A local went and got me a chair so there is still some kindness in the world. We spend most of our time trying to stay connected to the internet to find out what’s going on or book a flight. We are relying heavily on friends and family at home as the internet is so bad here.

I keep writing this as things update. We have just been told we will not be getting the flight tomorrow and will not be admitted entrance to the airport. At this point I’m so over the false hopes and the fight to get something organized. I just want a solid plan- even if that plan is we are stuck here for 2 weeks, at least we could accept and bunker down.

Tonight we opted to look after our mental health and sat on the rooftop with our Aussie friends drinking beers as they did a skype interview with the Australian press.

I can’t get over how surreal everything feels. I feel like I’m in a badly written disaster movie but everything is getting more more unrealistic.

The sirens have just started as the police enforce the curfew.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Pandemic Diary- San Cristobal: 16-18 March 2020

Day 1 (Monday):

We arrived on the island to news of uncertainty. Something was happening but no one knew what. We tried to book on a dive excursion and they told us to check back later. We checked into our AirBnB room behind a restaurant and in the owners home. The room was small and mustard coloured with no WiFi or AC but it would only be for a couple of days then we would get out. At dinner snip bits of overheard conversations brought travelers together of all different nationalities sharing stories of cancelled flights and new exit strategies. Our flight was not yet cancelled so we held onto hope the that we could make it until Thursday and get out. Later that night the dive shop told us that the government had closed all national parks, beaches, and the ferries between the islands have been stopped.

While we wait to leave it feels like we are in some sort of disaster movie as we watch all the world borders close down. On the islands themselves everything is closing up. People’s idea to stay here and wait it out may be ill advised as they will literally be confined to their hotel room. We are wishing away the time until we can get on a plane.

Day 2 (Tuesday):

Today started with the familiar sequence of trying to find WiFi, talking to people in the streets and trying to figure out what is going on. We ordered breakfast at a cafe. They would not let us come in so we stood outside waiting. It would be so much easier if we spoke better Spanish so we could make sense of things. 7 or 8 travelers stood outside the cafe to share information, rumors or info about what was happening. It is so difficult to figure out what is really going on. The police came by and asked us not to congregate and told us that from now on restaurants could only operate as take aways so we had to move on. We watched as they enforced the closure of shops and restaurants that had tried to stay open.

We walked down the main street by the seafront which had been bustling with tourists and vendors selling sightseeing tours just the day before but now the shutters were up, the streets were empty and everything was quiet. We found WiFi outside a closed cafe and sat down in the street to find out what was going on. The Ecuadorian government was stopping all internal flights on the 18th for 2 weeks and the country is effectively on lockdown. Our flight out was on the 19th so we missed it by a day. A few minutes later we got the official cancellation email from KLM. We were stuck. This made my stomach drop. We would not be able to make it back home to our families and we had to wait it out here. On the other hand it gave me relief not having the stress of uncertainty looming over us any longer.

We tried and failed to get hold of the British Embassy to ask for advice. Along with the help of mum and dad in the UK (as internet is so bad here) we set to finding somewhere to stay. We didn’t know how long this might go on for so booked an apartment with a kitchen then went food shopping for supplies. I tried to cheer myself up by buying the ingredients to make a cake. The locals dive for their masks when they see us coming and berate us for not wearing any. It lifted my spirits to be doing something and to know we would soon have a more comfortable space with AC and WiFi.

Later we walked the empty streets looking for any restaurants willing to do take-aways (many have just closed up completely) and avoided the sea lions that are reclaiming the streets and the people in HVAC suits spraying the ground.

Today a curfew was enforced from 9pm to 5am and flashing blue lights lit up our window as the police went about enforcing it.

Day 3 (Wednesday):

Adam went out early to gather information and came back with the morning bad news. Our AirBnB apartment had cancelled our stay. The excuse given was something to do with going into a phase 2 of lock down on the islands. There would be no cake now. Rumor spread from other trapped travelers that rescue flights may be sent to get us all off the island in the next few days. The advice was to put our names on a list at the airport and an online form with the Galapagos council. We set off on foot to the airport in the hot midday sun with our masks on now to avoid confrontations and registered with our Airline that we were stuck and awaiting news of flights. They said they would email us once they heard of any flights and to stay connected to the internet- not an easy task.

As we walked round the empty town other travelers would run up to us asking for news. We shared what we could and collected everyone’s phone number so we could add them to an ever growing WhatsApp group of stranded travelers on the islands (Coronaville). In the group were people collecting names and numbers of different nationalities to inform the respective government of how many people were stuck.

The people we met had so many interesting stories and differing attitudes to the situation. Sunny from Sweden was denied passage from one island to another once the harbors were shut but convinced locals to sneak her across in their boat so she could get to the airport. The French people we met were angry and fully convinced that their government would send a plane for them and were annoyed that they had not been informed of it as of yet. The Irish girls we met were worried but optimistic. The Americans were dramatic and complained about money. My favourite were the Ausies who were just so relaxed about the whole situation. One thing is for certain that no matter where they were from everyone banded together to help each other and share information. No one is alone in this and that’s nice.

We found a new hotel with AC (yay) and WiFi if we stand out in the hall. The manager has been great and fully understands our need to leave should the option become available.

Later in the day a message came on our WhatsApp group for all stranded travelers to meet at the town hall. Once there we found out from some helpful Americans that they had contacted their embassy and a flight was leaving on Friday to take them from Guayaquil to Miami. That could work. If we could just get to Miami we could potentially transfer to the UK or if we got stuck retreat to Salt Lake City. I felt like a spark of hope had ignited then we quickly realized that we still had the problem of getting off the island onto the mainland before we could make that flight. A representative at the city hall took all our contact details and said he would be working with the airlines to try and get us off the island. I’m not optimistic that that will happen before Friday.

We found a restaurant next to our hostel that was sneaking people in and sitting them outside behind wire gates covered with black bin bags. We had a lovely meal with a scrumptious chocolate and nutella milkshake feeling like we were in the war time eating eating contraband.

It feels like we are in some sort of diaster movie or it’s the end of the world. We are all just waiting for a flight out of here or for the zombies to arrive- whichever comes first.

Interlude: Borders Closed

This is a hard blog to write.

We got just about 1/4 into our trip but unfortunately after a call to the British Embassy we have made the decision to return home to the UK until the travel bans are lifted.

We saw it happening as the virus spread and country after country announced travel bans or restrictions. In South America we were in one of the safest places in the world but after seeing what has happened in other countries the lock down of borders has started. We intended to keep travelling for as long as we could but as of this week it is becoming impossible for us to keep moving forward, countries are shutting borders and our hostel and AirBnB bookings are being cancelled. We have been advised by the British Embassy to return home.

We spent the afternoon desperately trying to connect to WiFi to book a flight home. In the end my parents helped us make the booking as the internet was so temperamental.

We will hopefully restart our trip once the travel restrictions have been lifted.

The Galapagos Islands, Santa Cruz: 11-16 Mar 2020

The Travel:
1 hour taxi to Quito airport, 1 plane journey + additional Galapagos checks + additional Corona virus checks, a bus, a ferry, another bus later and we arrived at our temporary hotel until our double booked hotel made our room available.

The Place:
The town of Puerto Ayora was larger than I had anticipated. It’s not that it was large at all just that when I imagine the Galapagos I didn’t think of towns or people. However, the animals are definitely here and are living happily with the humans. The pelicans have practically been tamed as they patiently wait for cuts of fish as the fishermen clean and prepare their catch at outdoor butchering tables. Marine iguanas play statues along the sidewalk. Sea lions have their favourite lounging spots on benches with no regard for humans passing by or posing for photos. The odd looking tall tree-like cacti line the well paved seafront streets.

The Accommodation:
Sir Francis Drake Hotel
Private room with on suite a couple of blocks back from the sea front. Good clean rooms with hot showers.

Costa Del Pacifico:
Pretty much same as above but with a king sized bed and one street closer to the sea front. Any hotel feels pretty luxurious at this point in the trip.

The Food:
This place felt like a real holiday destination with a lines of restaurants and bars along the sea front. More like US prices here which hurts a little bit for South America but it is an isolated island so it makes sense. Also the official currency is the US dollar. So many places to eat and such good food! I felt very spoilt and very happy. We found the most amazing crepe place (Agua) and had the most delicious crepes. Vegetable curry savory crepe and kinder crepe for desert- sooo yummy! Adam almost adopted a baby gekko at this restaurant as one refused to leave him (shout out to Gekky). We went back twice. We became locals at a cafe serving great stone baked pizzas, milkshakes and ice-creams.

There was an entire street that in the evenings became pedestrain only as tables and chairs were set-up in the road. It was kind of like street food in that it was literally in the street but without the street food prices. I didn’t fully understand it as for the same price I could get a sea front restaurant.

I’m not a huge coffee lover but I got converted at the coffee lab (endorsed by Darwin apparently) with their frozen vanilla coffee slushies.

What We Did:

Scuba Diving: Seymour & Mosquera with Albatross dive shop
One of the best dives I have ever done, not for the coral (Belize & Hawaii have it there) but for the amount of marine life. The dive company were fantastic. We enjoyed the hour boat trip out to Seymour island taking in the sights and the cool sea spray out on the front of the yacht.
On the first dive we spent a leisurely hour swimming with white tipped sharks and watching them snooze. These sharks are basically just big fish and did not mind our presence in the slightest. It was strange to lock eyes with these creatures, see the awareness and make a connection in a world that we really didn’t belong. I was able to see the lines of teeth inside one of their open mouths which served as a reminder of the harm they could potentially inflict. We saw the odd turtle and ray as we swam through multitudes of colourful fish. Parrot fish followed us around and clams closed as we passed by. It was so much fun I didn’t want to come up.

We watched the snorkelers play with the sea lions and saw the unbearably cute sea pups waddle down the sandy banks of Seymour to play with the human visitors along with the odd curious fin nibble here and there. I was super jealous that I was an observer rather than participating but we had many more sea lion experiences to come and our next dive was definitely something special.

Dive two had us going deeper and losing a little visibility but that only added to make it more magical and eary as we watched shadows pass by in the near distance and materialize into black tipped and hammer head sharks. These are what people think of when they think of sharks. 2-3 meters creatures swam by us and sometimes unsettling circled us to see what we were. We literally sat on the sandy bottom watching them pass by.

I’ve kept my 100% record of throwing up when in or on water but this dive was definitely worth it.

Explored the Darwin Museum:
Eggs from the surrounding islands are taken, incubated and hatched in a protected habitat in order to protect the tiny tortoises from predators. To balance the population the eggs are incubated at temperatures varying by 1.5 degrees to produce either male or female tortoises. The tortoises are released back into the wild at 6 years old. Once they are 20-25 they can then reproduce themselves and the process starts again. Both domed and saddle back tortoises live in the sanctuary. It was just memorizing to watch these slow moving old creatures go about their daily routines (mainly finding shade or eating). They don’t need to hibernate here as it hot all year round.

We learnt that humans are the reason that the Galapagos Islands need a conservation program as the first human visitors ate the tortoises to near extinction or introduced predators to the islands. We saw the body of Lonesome George behind glass in a temperature and light controlled room. We had to enter an acclimatization room that cooled us down from the outdoor heat before entering the room where he -I want to say lives but stands forever in death I guess is more accurate. Poor George was the last of his species of giant tortoise but there is still a search for any living females so that with the magic of science the species could potentially be restarted. Diego’s story had a happier ending. He was a giant tortoise of another species that was also near extinction. He was taken to San Diego zoo but returned to the Galapagos as part of a breeding program which resulted in him having 800 decedents. After his very busy life he was returned back to his home island and into the wild.

Being so close to the equator it was extremely hot around midday and we had a few moments where we were under prepared with not enough water and no hats. We had to quickly hunt shade a few times and learnt from our mistakes. I now have a very nice Galapagos hat.

El Chato & wild giant tortoises:
We enjoyed a morning walking through lava tunnels and looking for giant tortoises. It was so much fun to hunt them down and see them in their natural habitat. Many were chilling in the pools. Bucket list item checked off.

Las Grietas:
Grietas literally translates into the crack. We swam in the cool crystal clear waters in the fracture between two tall cliffs. It was a nice way to cool down and very refreshing.

The Good: The amazing animals

The Bad: The midday heat

The Verdict: The most magical place on earth is not Disneyland it’s here.

The Worst Week of Travel: 03-11 Mar 2020

Salento–> Papoyan–> Impailes (impressive church)–> Quito, Ecuador. Taking 4 days.

Long travel days in small buses (we should have flown in hindsight) with not a lot to see on our way out of Colombia.

We entered Ecuador with the knowledge that the Corona Virus had started to spread within the country. We will now flag up when crossing the next boarder (hopefully we don’t get stuck and all this calms down).
Immediately after crossing the boarder into Ecuador someone grabbed Adam’s big backpack while he was paying for the taxi and ran off across the road. We think he was trying to get us onto his bus to Quito by taking our luggage hostage but definitely went the wrong way about getting our custom. Adam had a few choice words with the man in question and we got the next bus to Quito.

We arrived 2 days ahead of schedule in Quito so had emailed the hostel ahead of time to let them know we would be there early. All email correspondence said this would be fine. It wasn’t. We arrived tired and hungry only to find that there was no room at the inn until our original booked dates. We set out on the streets literally looking for a bed. Luckily a hostel just down the road had room.

We settled down to have a nice dinner and found out that our basement back in the US was flooding. Our house Manager was on holiday, we had zero cellular signal and WiFi was infrequent and unreliable. We spent Friday night trying to call plumbers with no luck. We got the guests to turn off the water to the house and had an uneasy night wondering if our house would still be there when we get home. The next day we set off on the quest for decent WiFi. After an hour or so walking into cafes asking for WiFi and either being told they had none or finding out it wouldn’t be good enough for us to make our calls we found a McDonalds. I don’t normally seek out McDonalds in other countries but I was happy to see this one. We finally found a plumber willing to help. One job was done and we sat down to eat our meal only to have coke spilt all over it. It may sound petty to react badly to this but by this point all our patience was gone. The end of the water issue story was that our dishwasher had sprung a leak and at the time of writing water was restored to the house, the dishwasher was turned off and we are just waiting for a part to be delivered so the repair can be made (I will not tempt fate by saying everything is resolved until I know for certain that it is).

The next day we decided to each take some time for ourselves and reset after our long travel days and the issues back home. Adam went on a day trip to hike up a volcano and cycle back down. I decided just to have a movie day and chill. The only thing I had to do was move from one hostel to another. At the new hostel I found out that our room was not available as it had been given to someone unwell. We were given free bunks for the night with the promise that the room would be ready tomorrow.

On the same road as our hostel about 50ft away was a small cafe we had found. I decided to go here for an early lunch and it was within that 2 minute journey that a couple of teenagers blocked my path. The first of them went to get my money belt containing my money and passport and the other grabbed my arm. I protected my money belt but swiftly the second boy lifted my phone from my pocket. Everything happened so quickly that it took me a second to realize what they had taken when they set off running. In a burst of adrenaline (and afterwards decidedly poor decision making) I ran after them. I don’t know exactly what I would have done had I caught them. Luckily I am not a very good runner.

The shock of what had happened was worse than what was lost. We purposely bought cheap phones for our travels and all our photos were backed up on Google. I set to getting access on our tablet to all the apps I had used on my phone. I thought our problems were ending but it’s here that they really started. Over the course of 3 days I must have spent a good 5/6 hours on the phone to AirBnB and 2 of the most infuriating hours of my life on the phone to Microsoft to attempt to regain access to my email account. It turns out that despite knowing all log in details and being able to answer all security questions without the phone connected to the account there was no way to verify it was really me and apparently no work around. It really depends on the phone operator and for the most part we were unlucky. Everything was linked to my email address and without access to my phone or email it was just a disaster. By the last day we were getting pretty upset and frustrated as the following day we were leaving for the Galapagos Islands to an unknown AirBnB address with no way to contact our host. After an hour of a Microsoft “help” assistant refusing to help me in any way or put a manager or supervisor on I may have shouted something along the lines of “I don’t care who I speak to as long as its someone else, get me the CEO, get me Bill Gates himself but I need some help”. I really hope someone reviews that phone conversation. Right now I still don’t have access to my emails. On the final day we got a helpful AirBnB operator and accessed my account and she was able to connect it to a new email address. Success! 15 minutes later my account got flagged for suspicious activity and I was locked out. Luckily in the 15 minutes I had access to the system I recorded all upcoming locations for our trip. The one thing I have learnt from this experience is to add multiple phone numbers and multiple email addresses to all accounts.

As you can probably tell we didn’t get to see much of the city itself and our time in Quito was not in the least bit enjoyable. I was thrilled to get in the taxi to the airport and start fresh just to be sat in a long line of traffic behind an overturned potato truck. I couldn’t make this up if I tried. Long story short – after a stressful journey we made our flight and that’s where I am now, sat on a plane to the Galapagos.

Quick shout out to the immigration guy who gave us his valuable time in between completing levels of his game as we stressed about making our flight.

I apologize for the length of my rantings as I use this to vent. Today is a new day and from here hopefully everything is onwards and upwards.

Salento 29 Feb- 03 Mar 2020

The 7 hour journey was split between an open air chilly chicken bus and an air conditioned coach. A long journey but the time passed quickly as we watched the beautiful Colombian countriside slide by with dramatic mountains and valleys.

Lets take a moment here to talk about the experiences on a Colombian bus journey. Every so often a seller hops on the bus trying to sell fruits, nuts or sweets then hops off. Entertainers often choose cross roads to put on mini performances with the hopes of tips. The best were the fire juggler and the tight-rope walker. The drivers take some questionable risks and seem to want to overtake anything that is front regardless of blind corners or visability. Horns serve as warning to other road users to get out of the way. Travel sickness tablets and ginger got me through the journeys.

The Place:
Salento is like a bigger more touristy Jarden in the mountains of Colombia with more bars and restaurants. It’s hilly streets all lead to a town square with a church. If we had arrived here straight from Medellin we would have thought it quaint but after Jarden it fails in comparrison.

Accomodation: Cattleya Hostel
Private room with shared bathroom and free breakfast. Located directly across the road from the bus station and at the bottom of the hill from the town square. Friendly pet dogs gave us some puppy love but made us miss our dog Rusty at home.

The Food:
Varied restaurant food. All good and extremely cheap. Great vibe with live music.

What We Did:

Coffee Tour at Ocaso Coffee Farm
We toured the coffee farm where we were able to witness the process from seed to cup. We picked the berries and sampled real Colmbian coffee with a lesson on coffee tasting. I really enjoyed this day even though I’m not a huge coffee fan.

Cocura Valley Hike
Five hour hike up through jungle and down via fields containing the worlds tallest palm trees. The beauty of the hike was the change in terrain from crossing old rickety bridges in the jungle (Katie Croft) to craining necks upwards to glance the tops of lofty palm trees.

Watched Tejo
Tejo is kinda like extreme corn hole with explosives. Firecrackers are set in a circle on a clay mound and the aim of the game is to get the most points by throwing stones either inside the ring or directly onto a firecracker.

This was our last big stop in Colombia. Colombia has been my favourite country so far and has a lot to offer from the beaches, towns and jungles to the coffee region up in the mountains. It’s been the cheapest country for us so far on our travels and we have consitently stayed under budget. The people are friendly, patient and helpful with our limited Spanish. I would highly reccommend a visit to Colombia.

The Good: The activities

The Bad: Maybe lost some of its small town charm to tourism (I guess we didn’t help with that)

The Verdict: Enjoyed our time here for what we did.